||Jack Wilhelmsen EZ-Noselift and MKNG6A.
||Sent in the order for the EZ-Noselift and
related parts. Expect 3 week lead time.
||NG-1L nose strut from FeatherLite
||Ordered the nose gear strut from
FeatherLite. $91 + $15 shipping.
||Chapter kit from Spruce
||MKAA castering nosewheel assembly & other
||Ordered the nose fork & some other small
things from Jack W.
||Step 1: reinforcing NG-1L
||Checked fit & dimensions of NG-1L.
Cut down from 27-1/4" to 25-3/4". Sanded dull. Cut out glass
& peel ply. Applied glass to both sides. Left 2nd side to
||Cut out NG-30's. Located peel ply
over NG6A pivot, applied 2 plies BID, peel ply & wax paper. Turned
over, micro'd, and put 4 plies BID. Knife-trimmed. When it
was completely cured I carefully trimmed the edges, put them together
inside-surface to inside-surface, and made them match perfectly using a
dremel and a sanding block. Cut the holes using a drill press.
||Made the 1/4" birch doublers with the 1/4"
aluminum inserts. Made the 1/8" aluminum doubler.
Removed foam from NG-30's for the mounting brackets. Because I'm
not installing the worm drive (I'm using the Wilhelmsen EZ-Noselift), I
did not cut the bottom mounting holes, and I cut the top three holes on
both sides. Floxed the 1/4" birch doublers in place. Cut
out, wet out and applied 15-ply BID pads in the 1.2" depressions
(hardpoints for mounting brackets), then applied 4 plies BID overall.
Floxed the aluminum doubler over the birch doubler and added another 2
plies BID over these. Knife-trimmed.
||Trimmed the edges around the NG-30s,
aligned the pieces carefully and sanded. Drilled all the holes as
instructed, separated the pieces and drew an outline of the area to be
removed from the inside sides for NG6A.
||Drilled out the glass and foam on the
inside surfaces over the MKNG6-A doublers, removed the peel ply, and
applied 2 plies BID over the area. Peel plied, covered with some
blocks, and left it to cure. Floxed NG1-L to MKNG-6, and cut out
||Removed NG1-L from NG-30s, drilled 4 3/16"
holes through MKNG6 & NG1-L. Checked alignment w/ NG-5, dead on.
Drilled 1 pilot hole through NG-5, and screwed it to NG1-L.
Drilled remaining holes through NG-5 and attached it to NG1-L with flox
||Floxed NG3 and NG4 to NG1-L at 6.79".
This is following the instructions included with the Wilhelmsen
actuator, rather than the location called out in the plans. Cut
out F0, applied micro, and 1 ply BID. Floxed to NG-30s, used nails to
steady it, and used 2-ply BID tape as called for. Cut out NG-5,
micro & 2-plies BID, microd and nailed to NG-30s.
||Floxed NG-30 assembly to F-22. 2 plies BID
tape all around. Micro and 1 ply BID on the fore face of F0, and
micro and 2 plies BID (@ 45-deg) on aft face on F5.
||Cut out nose floor, both sides.
Sanded depression in both sides. Micro'd in place. Cut NG-31
and NG-32, glassed one side of each with 2-plies BID.
||2 plies BID on 2nd side of NG-31 and NG-32.
Cut foam for transition to floor aft of F22. Attached with 5ME and
finished the shape. Cut BID for nose floor (2 plies each side), micro'd
and layups of 2 plies BID on nose floor. Trimmed NG-31 & 32.
Added 1 ply BID fore of F-22. Added peel ply to the sides of the
nose floor. Installed NG-31 & 32 with flox. I carefully
located the fuselage centerline and drew a centerline on F0, to use for
positioning these bulkheads. Insured correct position with plumb
bob and level.
||Strange, not only is the nose wheel not
included in the chapter kit that Spruce sells, they don't even carry the
part at all. This is NWA-1230, the 4" nose wheel. When I
couldn't find it among my materials I went back to check the parts list.
So I ordered it from Wicks. Maybe the reason Spruce's prices are
lower is that they're leaving things out that Wicks is not?
Anyway, it's on its way.
||Applied BID tapes to NG31 & NG32.
Floxed NG15 and support foot to NG-1L. I don't have the AN-525
machine head screws for this! I have also been told not to use the
machine head screws, I should get AN-4 bolts instead. Will order.
||Flipped fuselage over, traced cut-out for
nose gear to retract into fuselage. Like many others I will be
adding gear doors, so I'll need to figure out how to build this in.
After checking many websites and posting to the list, I will make 1/4"
birch plywood inserts with 4 aluminum inserts. I'll need to figure
out what hardware to order for this as well. I cut out the floor
of the fuselage for the nose wheel, trimmed the cutout in F22 to allow
the gear to retract further inside the fuselage. Cut out the birch
inserts for the gear doors.
||Cut 2" foam to fit the cutout in the floor
of the fuselage for the gear doors. 3-plies BID on outside.
||Cut 45-deg bevel on birch inserts, floxed
into bottom of fuselage. 1 ply BID over the birch with flox
corners. Sanding foam for gear doors to allow the nose wheel to
retract past the doors.
||2 plies BID inside gear doors. Also
bought some 55W halogen lights from Advance Auto Parts to install in the
nose. Probably the cheapest electrical thing I'll put in the
||Cut gear doors into 2 pieces. 1 ply
BID with flox corners over the middle section. Also added 2 plies
BID reinforcement on the aft side of F0, where the halogen lights will
||Installed halogen lights in nose (will wire
up later, when I figure out how to route the wires and hook it into my
||- Expanded rudder pedal pivot extension
holes through NG-30s to 3/4" for the Olemann pedals.
- Positioned nose
gear retract, marked holes on mounting brackets, drilled to 1/4",
installed retract. To do this I attached the nose retract to the
NG-3/NG-4 bracket on the nose strut, held the retract motor in place and
manually extended it until the nose gear was at exactly F16. I
then marked the mounting brackets, and manually retracted the gear to
its fully retracted position and verified 2" clearance to the fore of
F22, and confirmed the holes I marked in the bracket.
- Added a countersink to NG-4, so the threads would extend enough on
the other side to get the nut and washer on.
- Cut foam for nose sides (A,B,C), foam shaping. I cut a
template for the contour based on the shape of the nose floor, from a
spare (scrap) piece of wood lying around. Glassed the sides,
||- Opened canard lift tab holes in F22 to
5/8" with the spot facing tool. Trimmed nose sides to make room
for the canard. (You'd think the templates would give you the
shape for this; it's not like it's an unknown shape!! Of course I
cut too much foam away and had to add some back in, what a pain!)
Installed CNL bushings in these holes with flox. Attached canard
- Moving ahead to step 6 while the flox for the CNL bushings
is curing. Cut pivot blocks for rudder pedals and floxed in place.
Made 2 nutplates. Trial fit rudder pedals and marked location in
pivot blocks. Drilled 3/8" holes through pivot blocks.
Sanded a bit to get the nutplates flush with the pivot blocks, then 5ME
them in place. When it was dry, removed the bolts and filled the
holes with vaseline. Sanded everything, radiused the edges,
smoothed things over with dry micro, wet micro over the foam, and 4
plies BID over the pivot blocks.
||Shaped foam for wheel well, glassed.
||- Cut birch plywood inserts to attach
brackets to, for the install of the 10-54 cylinders (the cylinders are
the expense for this entry). Routed out holes in the nose floor
for the birch inserts. Made brackets from 3/4" square alum.
tubing. Drilled holes through brackets and birch for the attach,
then drilled a slightly larger hole on the back of the insert, to hold
the nuts in place. Floxed the inserts into the floor of the nose,
then covered with 2-ply BID overlapping about 1" square. Bolted
brackets to inserts, and put another ply of BID over brackets.
When cured, attached the 10-54 master cylinders to the brackets, which
completes the assembly for the master cylinders. Whew!
- Cut out
a 2" x 4" hole on each side of the nose wheel well for the windows.
Cut Plexiglas (3" x 5") for the windows, and 5ME'd the windows over the
holes (on the inside of the well). Added 1-ply BID overlapping
Plexiglas 1/2" and the inside of the well 1/2".
||- Removed the nose gear doors, will return
to this later.
- Cut hole in the strut cover to make room for the
retract piston. When I was satisfied of the clearance, floxed the
strut cover in place.
- Installed the nose wheel well in place with 1-ply BID all around.
Cut a foam wedge to re-direct the heat duct air, covered with 1-ply BID,
and installed in place.
- Cut the 1/4" aluminum tubing for the pitot tube, and then decided
to order the parts for the removable pitot tube.
||Installed the removable pitot tube, routed
the pitot line, installed the static line. Cut out foam for the
nose, plus the top of the nose. Got everything ready for the
shaping of the nose.
||Shaped the bottom nose.
||Sanded, cleaned, and taped plastic over the
bottom (top) half of the nose. Dry micro to fill in the gaps, wet
micro over the foam, then 2 plies BID. 1 extra ply BID over the
nose strut. Peel ply the sides.
||Nose & nose doors
||Rolled the plane over, removed top piece of
foam. Installed master cylinder reservoirs. Made a template
for the shaping of the nose; also retrieved the side contouring template
from when we made the fuselage sides. Shaped nose. Created a
1" depression over F-0 and the side seams for taping, plus a .2"
depression .8" wide for the canard cover. Rolled plane over again
and cut the nose strut free, and removed it from the plane.
Drilled the 3/16" hole through NG-3 (but I don't seem to have the
machine head screw for this, will have to order it). Added 1-ply
BID on NG-1A overlapping the glass from the nose bottom.
Nose door: Measured out the shape for the nose door on a piece of
paper, cut out 3 plies BID, added box sealing tape over top of the nose.
Wet out the glass and installed it on the nose. Then I decided to
do the same for the front nose door. Cut a piece similarly to the
aft door, 8" x 5" x 6", and wet out and installed another 3-ply BID.
||1" wide 3-ply BID around the edges of both
doors, and back on the nose to cure.
||Nose & doors
- Sanded NG-1L (cleaning up after the 1-ply BID tape inside of the
- Drilled static port holes (3 1/16" holes into the aluminum tube)
- Cut doors to shape (trimming after inside edge tape layups)
- Sanded the foam under the doors so the doors can lay flush
- Dry micro to fill gaps, wet micro over foam on top of nose
- 2 ply BID over nose
- Covers in place to assure a good fit after cure (saran wrap for
||Nose & doors
- Cut out openings for nose doors, leaving .8" flange
- Cut off top
- Sanded and shaped inside of top (bevel to flange, flox corners)
- 2 plies BID w/ flox corners over aft edge of opening
- Put the top back in place, and confirmed fit with canard (had to
trim off about 1/2" from aft edge to allow install/removal of canard
- Removed canard & top again
- Floxed corners, wet micro over inside of nose top, and 1 ply BID
overall, 2 plies extra over flanges
- Installed top back on nose with lots of flox, 1-ply BID tape all
- BID tape on outside
Installing nutplates to hold nose door in place, and installed the
torsional support from F-22 to the nose top.
||Nose gear motor wiring
Did all the wiring for the nose gear motor, after getting guidance from
someone who knows how to read electrical diagrams (thanks, Dad!).
Wired the system up (including 10a breaker), attached it to a 12v
battery, and...nothing! *sigh* Will need to go over
everything again and see what I did wrong.