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Cozy Mark IV

Cozy Mark IV : Time and Expenses

Chapter 10: Canard Construction

In this chapter you will construct the canard using the R1145MS airfoil, which should have no trim change in rain.

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Chapter 10

# Desc Date Cost Time (hours) Details
1. Brock parts 7/29/05 23.60   NCCLT (2)
2. Chapter kit   335.22   Chapter kit from Spruce, plus hotwire kit.
3. Canard 8/13/05   4 Used spray adhesive to glue (a copy of) M-17 to some flashing, rough cut with a jig saw and the fine-cut with a band saw.  Finished A-D, and then called it a night.
4. Canard 8/14/05   8 Finished cutting out the templates, sanded, drilled holes for nails.  Made 10 6.5" dowels (sharpened tips with a pencil sharpener) and 1 12" one, set aside.  Then the hot-wire fun began!  We pre-cut the blocks to the required dimensions, cut out all canard pieces.  Insert the 12" dowel into each of the canard sections (3 in the middle, and 4 each on the outside sections), and then cut away the LE.  Amy and Alec helped me all day long, because the hotwire is too difficult to use for one person alone.  We were all a bit nervous about the hotwire cutting at first, but doing the straight pre-cuts really helped get used to the cutter and build confidence.  We also did a small, practice cut with the templates, to get the hang of calling out the numbers.  There were a couple of little bumps and snags, but when it was all over the canard pieces look really terrific. 
5. Canard 9/3/05   1 Bondo'd 8' long boards to the table, 3.5" apart.  Drew centerlines along the face.  Radiused edges.  Inserted nails into the canard, and lined the pieces up along the boards.
6. Canard 9/5/05   1 It seems that one of the pieces of foam for the canard has changed its shape.  The only thing I can figure is that the heat from being in the garage caused it to warp a bit.  The inboard edge of one of the inboard cores does not line up perfectly with the attaching edge of the center section core.  It contacts on one side, but the other side is about 1/8" too short.  None of the other pieces exhibit this warp, so I don't think we made a mistake in the cutting.  Anyway, I trimmed it flat, losing 1/8" on that piece.  Bondo'd nails in the center core to the boards, dry micro'd the core pieces together, and then bondo'd all the nails down. 
7. Canard 9/11/05   1 Made the lift tab inserts, drilled holes in the canard for the inserts with my dremel.  Bondo'd some boards to the table to support the insert's jigs.  I need to get some 1/8" thick metal to make these jigs (plans call for scrap but I don't have any?).
8. Canard 9/18/05   11 Made jigs for lift tabs from "scrap" 1/8" thick aluminum.  Bolted inserts to jigs, drilled holes through jigs to blocks, and nailed in place.  Micro'd inserts into canard.  While that was drying, I started cutting out all the cloth for the shear web.  Removed jigs from over inserts and filled holes with silicone.  Put masking tape over edge of spar cap.  Did shear web and spar cap layups.  After each layup I used the longer sharp dowel to open up the holes to align the LE of the canard.  Did the layups of the lift tab reinforcements (micro'd the edges).  Put down peel-ply, removed the masking tape, and let the whole thing dry.
9. Canard 9/19/05   1 Removed the peel ply, drilled holes for the lift tabs through the jigs (and dug out the silicone), floxed and bolted the lift tabs in place.
10. Canard 9/21/05   1 Removed the nails from the canard and removed all the boards and blocks.  Set aside.  Cut out the K template (the paper had been previously spray-glued to some aluminum flashing).  I need to go get some 1/2" thick particle board to make the 10 K jigs.
11. Canard 9/24/05   3 Cut out the K templates in 1/2" thick particle board (shelving).  Used some sandpaper, sanding block, and a bit of a belt sander to get the jigs perfectly identical.  Positioned the jigs on my work table, and bondo'd in place.  Positioned the canard sections in the jigs and did a trial fit with the dowels.  Removed dowels, mixed up some dry micro, and re-positioned the LE pieces.  Coated dowels with micro and re-inserted, this time all the way in.  Also attached the outboard sections.  At this point I had a little twist in the cores that needed to be corrected, primarily in the left inboard LE core.  I used some 5ME to hold it in position against the center LE core, and then weighted the whole assembly down in the jigs.  I also used a couple of nails to keep things aligned a tight.  Of course checking with the template all the while.  Good fit, no visible twist, so I left the whole thing alone overnight to cure.
12. Spar cap layup 10/1/05   6 Taped off the canard, sanded down the shear web, and got ready for the spar cap layup.  Mixed up a big batch of epoxy and measured out a length of spar cap tape.  It took 10 plies to fill the trench.  Measured the height with the template, and covered the whole thing with peel ply.
13. Bottom skin ??   2  
14. Bottom skin ??   2  
15. Top side, foam blocks 4/1/06   4 Sanded LE, bondo'd PVC pipe over fishtail, made popsickle-stick shims to level the blocks, and bondo'd the blocks to the bottom.  Popped the canard out of the jigs and turned it over.  Cut off fishtail, sanded the LE some more (much easier now that it's right-side up and extending over the edge of the table!!), and leveled the canard.  No twist.  Cut out foam for the hard point inserts, figured out where they should be positioned*, and cut out the foam from the canard.  Micro'd the inserts in place, left it to dry, calling it a day.

* WTF?  No info on dimensions, the only info here is BL (to the center? near edge? far edge?).  When the plans are SO non-specific I can only assume it means that any approximation will do.  Of course used the torque tubes to find exact BL positions, but I don't really know if they're wide or tall enough.  Nothing in the FAQ about this.  I'm going to be really bummed if, when it comes time to use these foam inserts they are the wrong size, in the wrong position, etc.

16. Top spar cap layup 4/2/06   3 Sanded foam inserts from yesterday, taped off trough and did as much of the spar cap layup as I could before running out of the 3" tape.  Put peel ply over the tape, and ordered more tape from Spruce.  (Should have checked the FAQ more carefully; they warned me that the plans amount of 3" tape would probably not be enough.)
17. Top spar cap layup 4/23/06   6 Removed peel ply and finished top spar cap layup.  Also today I put a 2-ply BID reinforcement for the landing brake actuator attachment.  Drilled trough for antennae on the canard top, measured and cut NAV and Glide Scope antennae, cut coax.
18. Top skin 4/28/06   7 Sanded top of spar cap to conform to template.  Soldered antennas.  Filled in holes with dry micro, coated foam with micro, painted epoxy on spar cap, 2" over LE, and TE, and put down all the plies of the top skin.  Peel ply'd LE.
19. Finishing up     2 Popped canard from blocks, sanded away bondo, sanded LE, put canard aside, and cleaned up workshop.

Chapter total: Time 63, Cost $358.82

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Last modified: Sunday, April 30, 2006