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||Chapter kit from Spruce, plus hotwire kit.
||Used spray adhesive to glue (a copy of) M-17 to some
flashing, rough cut with a jig saw and the fine-cut with a band saw.
Finished A-D, and then called it a night.
||Finished cutting out the templates, sanded, drilled
holes for nails. Made 10 6.5" dowels (sharpened tips with a pencil
sharpener) and 1 12" one, set aside. Then the hot-wire fun began!
We pre-cut the blocks to the required dimensions, cut out all canard
pieces. Insert the 12" dowel into each of the canard sections (3
in the middle, and 4 each on the outside sections), and then cut away
the LE. Amy and Alec helped me all day long, because the hotwire
is too difficult to use for one person alone. We were all a bit
nervous about the hotwire cutting at first, but doing the straight
pre-cuts really helped get used to the cutter and build confidence.
We also did a small, practice cut with the templates, to get the hang of
calling out the numbers. There were a couple of little bumps and
snags, but when it was all over the canard pieces look really terrific.
||Bondo'd 8' long boards to the table, 3.5" apart.
Drew centerlines along the face. Radiused edges. Inserted
nails into the canard, and lined the pieces up along the boards.
||It seems that one of the pieces of foam for the canard
has changed its shape. The only thing I can figure is that the
heat from being in the garage caused it to warp a bit. The inboard
edge of one of the inboard cores does not line up perfectly with the
attaching edge of the center section core. It contacts on one
side, but the other side is about 1/8" too short. None of the
other pieces exhibit this warp, so I don't think we made a mistake in
the cutting. Anyway, I trimmed it flat, losing 1/8" on that piece.
Bondo'd nails in the center core to the boards, dry micro'd the core
pieces together, and then bondo'd all the nails down.
||Made the lift tab inserts, drilled holes in the canard
for the inserts with my dremel. Bondo'd some boards to the table
to support the insert's jigs. I need to get some 1/8" thick metal
to make these jigs (plans call for scrap but I don't have any?).
||Made jigs for lift tabs from "scrap" 1/8" thick
aluminum. Bolted inserts to jigs, drilled holes through jigs to
blocks, and nailed in place. Micro'd inserts into canard.
While that was drying, I started cutting out all the cloth for the shear
web. Removed jigs from over inserts and filled holes with
silicone. Put masking tape over edge of spar cap. Did shear
web and spar cap layups. After each layup I used the longer sharp
dowel to open up the holes to align the LE of the canard. Did the
layups of the lift tab reinforcements (micro'd the edges). Put
down peel-ply, removed the masking tape, and let the whole thing dry.
||Removed the peel ply, drilled holes for the lift tabs
through the jigs (and dug out the silicone), floxed and bolted the lift
tabs in place.
||Removed the nails from the canard and removed all the
boards and blocks. Set aside. Cut out the K template (the
paper had been previously spray-glued to some aluminum flashing).
I need to go get some 1/2" thick particle board to make the 10 K jigs.
||Cut out the K templates in 1/2" thick particle board
(shelving). Used some sandpaper, sanding block, and a bit of a
belt sander to get the jigs perfectly identical. Positioned the
jigs on my work table, and bondo'd in place. Positioned the canard
sections in the jigs and did a trial fit with the dowels. Removed
dowels, mixed up some dry micro, and re-positioned the LE pieces.
Coated dowels with micro and re-inserted, this time all the way in.
Also attached the outboard sections. At this point I had a little
twist in the cores that needed to be corrected, primarily in the left
inboard LE core. I used some 5ME to hold it in position against
the center LE core, and then weighted the whole assembly down in the
jigs. I also used a couple of nails to keep things aligned a
tight. Of course checking with the template all the while.
Good fit, no visible twist, so I left the whole thing alone overnight to
||Spar cap layup
||Taped off the canard, sanded down the shear web, and got
ready for the spar cap layup. Mixed up a big batch of epoxy and
measured out a length of spar cap tape. It took 10 plies to fill
the trench. Measured the height with the template, and covered the
whole thing with peel ply.
||Top side, foam blocks
||Sanded LE, bondo'd PVC pipe over fishtail, made
popsickle-stick shims to level the blocks, and bondo'd the blocks to the
bottom. Popped the canard out of the jigs and turned it over.
Cut off fishtail, sanded the LE some more (much easier now that it's
right-side up and extending over the edge of the table!!), and leveled
the canard. No twist. Cut out foam for the hard point
inserts, figured out where they should be positioned*, and cut out the
foam from the canard. Micro'd the inserts in place, left it to
dry, calling it a day.
* WTF? No info on dimensions, the only
info here is BL (to the center? near edge? far edge?). When the
plans are SO non-specific I can only assume it means that any
approximation will do. Of course used the torque tubes to find
exact BL positions, but I don't really know if they're wide or tall
enough. Nothing in the FAQ about this. I'm going to be
really bummed if, when it comes time to use these foam inserts they are
the wrong size, in the wrong position, etc.
||Top spar cap layup
||Sanded foam inserts from yesterday, taped off trough and
did as much of the spar cap layup as I could before running out of the
3" tape. Put peel ply over the tape, and ordered more tape from
Spruce. (Should have checked the FAQ more carefully; they warned
me that the plans amount of 3" tape would probably not be enough.)
||Top spar cap layup
||Removed peel ply and finished top spar cap layup.
Also today I put a 2-ply BID reinforcement for the landing brake
actuator attachment. Drilled trough for antennae on the canard
top, measured and cut NAV and Glide Scope antennae, cut coax.
||Sanded top of spar cap to conform to template.
Soldered antennas. Filled in holes with dry micro, coated foam
with micro, painted epoxy on spar cap, 2" over LE, and TE, and put down
all the plies of the top skin. Peel ply'd LE.
||Popped canard from blocks, sanded away bondo, sanded LE,
put canard aside, and cleaned up workshop.
Chapter total: Time 63, Cost $358.82
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